The Buttermilks

Day 2 brought us another beautiful sunrise and the day of our exodus from Bishop. However, we needed to get some food first. We packed up our stuff after literally rolling off the crash pad, and headed into town to Erik Schat's Bakkery. No, I did not spell that wrong. There, we lazily perused the bread and waited for the turkey legs to become available. Oh, how I do love turkey legs for breakfast. So, we each got one, some oj, and Obi got a large sandwich and some other bakkery products as well. We were well set for a day of climbing. So, off to the Buttermilks.

We arrive and I see the giant boulders for the first time. Grandma and Grandpa Peabody are looming over the ground. Dear Lord, what have I gotten myself into? We didn't have much time to climb today, but it was a great day anyways. We headed up to a problem Dan had mentioned. It's called Hero Roof. While not actually a roof in the fully overhanging sense, it is a fun v0. Which was all I worked on for the day. I tried it a bunch of times. And made it up the vB downclimb. As we were there, we began to gather people. It became sort of a party. And I felt that I let down a number of people. Everyone was rooting for me to make the climb. I had the bottom dialed. I got it smooth. I had lots left for the top. But I just couldn't reach the move everybody else could stick. It was rather depressing to get so far, and be totally unable to stick a move purely because it was just an inch too far away on my closest attempt. I put everything I had into that throw. And didn't make it. But it was nice to have people cheering me on. It was nice to feel everybody believing I would make it that time. It felt good that there was no doubt in people's minds that I could make the move. It was just ever so slightly out of reach. With more spotters than I had ever had, it was easy to make a good try for it. There was no fear of falling. I have mixed feelings about my day at the Buttermilks. Maybe I'll go back this fall and be just a little bit stronger. Maybe I'll go the first day, and have everything to throw at that problem. But the most frustrated I get is when I can do the move just like everybody else, maybe smoother, and the only thing that prevents me from reaching is the physical length of my arm. I was crushed inside.

So, that was all I really attempted at the Buttermilks. We spent a long time there, and didn't really have time for much else. Obi worked on something called Bowling Pin. It was a neat problem and he was flowing so nicely through it, but again, it had a heel hook, which didn't allow him to work it. It's hard watching him ache, knowing he's strong enough and he has the technique. I feel like I understand him better because of my height. It's not that he lacks the strength or ability to make the move, there is a physical limitation holding him back that he can't get past right now. I really feel for him.

We went on a tour of the nearby boulders, seeing the Buttermilker, Mandala, Evilution, Soul Slinger (which we saw someone send). It is a damn impressive set of climbs, for sure. We passed back by the group that had paused with us at Hero Roof. They asked if I made it, I said no. They looked sympathetic. Bleh. Someday.

So we headed out. We stopped at little pizza place (the name involved uncle... I'm so bad with names). The pizza was very thick, and served by the one and only employee present. It was cool. I liked the little place. It definitely had a home/family run feel. Then we made the long drive back to San Diego, in order to get here by 10pm. We didn't quite make it, we hit more like 11, but it was ok anyways. The trip was a real learning experience for me, and I look forward to trying many of those problems again in the future, when I'll have felt the moves before, be able to work it out a little faster. Mostly it got me excited for Black Mountain season. When I'll get to go back to the climbs that I am most familiar with outdoors (besides gunsmoke). And I'll get a second crack at my old friends.